The Grape reveals its standing as a neighborhood institution…

The Grape reveals its standing as a neighborhood institution through scores of physical details both enduring and endearing. There are, most prominently, the gently faded frescoes of curling vines that amble across the dining room walls. Chockablock newspaper and magazine clippings, growing evermore sepia-toned in their aging frames, tell the story of American fashion via the clothes on cover models and the eyewear (sometimes astoundingly large) displayed by columnists on their byline pics through the decades. The menu, though also handed to you, is neatly scrawled on a blackboard, a tradition since the restaurant opened in 1972…